CO₂ Laser Cutting

How to Laser Cut Fabric & Leather Cleanly

For shoe uppers, bags, apparel trims, and foam laminates, CO₂ 60–100W is the practical sweet spot—fast enough for line output yet gentle on soft substrates. This guide distills factory-proven speed windows from GWEIKE M-Series 6-in-1 application data, along with airflow engineering, lens/focus setup, and a zero-guess SOP to achieve clean, non-browned edges in 2 mm leather and single-layer fabrics.

Materials: Leather & Fabric Power: 60–100W CO₂ Goal: Clean edges Use case: Mass production

Executive summary

Summary: speed is limited by airflow direction and focus stability, not watts alone. Fix the gas path → double throughput with the same power.

Material Behavior: Leather vs Fabric (What Really Matters)

Leather (2 mm typical)

  • Contains oils and binders → tends to brown if heat stays in kerf.
  • Small, fast side-blow reduces dwell and “smoke glaze”.
  • 50 mm lens (small spot) helps keep speed high at low heat load.

Fabric (single layer or stacked)

  • Lightweight and porous → can flutter or lift into the beam.
  • Bottom extraction + honeycomb “breathing” stabilizes web.
  • 63.5 mm lens gives a bit more focal depth → less “soft focus.”
Fabric & Leather Laser Cutting

Speed Windows (60–100W)

Use these as start points. Tune ±5–10% for tannage, weave and color.

Material Thickness Power High Speed Best Speed Lens Airflow Baseline
Leather ~2 mm 60 W 40 mm/s 35 mm/s 50 mm Side-blow ~0.15–0.20 MPa; low bottom draw
Leather ~2 mm 100 W 65 mm/s 60 mm/s 50 mm Side-blow ~0.20–0.25 MPa; minimal top-blow
Fabric (single) 1 layer 60 W 60 mm/s 58 mm/s 63.5 mm Bottom suction + gentle top assist
Fabric (single) 1 layer 100 W 200 mm/s 150 mm/s 63.5 mm Strong bottom suction; side-blow if fibers fuzzy

Values reflect practical results on GWEIKE M-Series. For stacked plies or coated fabrics, derate by 10–25%.

Airflow Engineering (Where Throughput Is Won)

Leather — keep velocity high, not volume high

  • Nozzle: 1.5–2.0 mm aperture → higher jet velocity to sweep the kerf.
  • Angle: 15–25° downward aiming into the beam; avoid skimming the surface.
  • Bottom: light extraction only (too much ↓ cools too fast → brittle edges).

Fabric — stabilize the sheet; clear the vapor fast

  • Bottom suction through honeycomb to hold web flat and pull plume down.
  • Side-blow optional for hairy/bushy fabrics to prevent soot redeposit.
  • Top assist gentle; high top-blow lifts the web and hurts focus.

Velocity beats raw flow: small aperture + correct direction outperforms big, slow air.

Lens & Focus Setup

50 mm lens (leather)

  • Small spot → high energy density → shorter dwell → less browning.
  • Focus at surface to −0.3 mm (thin skins) or −0.5 mm (dense leather).

63.5 mm lens (fabric)

  • Slightly longer Rayleigh range → less “soft focus” when web lifts.
  • Focus at surface; for airy meshes, try −0.2 mm.

Don't know how to choose the right lens? Click here to learn more.

Production SOP (Zero-Guess)

  1. Fixture: use honeycomb; if fabric curls, add perimeter pins or light vacuum frame.
  2. Optics: clean lens/mirror; check nozzle concentricity (tape test).
  3. Lens: leather → 50 mm; fabric → 63.5 mm.
  4. Focus: set as above; verify with acrylic test strip or ramp.
  5. Air: leather → side-blow, small nozzle; fabric → bottom suction + gentle top assist.
  6. Speed: start at “Best” from the table; increase until defects appear, then back off 5–10%.
  7. Quality gate: inspect 5 pcs for color, fuzz, edge hardness; log power/speed/air/focus.

If scaling to multiple heads/shifts: standardize on “Best − 5%” to absorb fabric/leather variance.

Troubleshooting (Fast Fix Matrix)

Symptom Likely Cause Fix
Brown edge (leather) Dwell too long; air not in kerf Smaller nozzle (↑velocity); raise speed 5–10%; adjust angle 15–25°
Hazy/sooty edge (fabric) Plume trapped; top-blow lifts web Increase bottom suction; reduce top-blow; add side-blow sweep
Edge crispy/hard (leather) Over-cooling from bottom; focus too deep Reduce bottom draw; move focus toward surface by 0.2–0.3 mm
Uncut fibers / bridges Speed too high or defocus Lower speed 5%; re-focus; verify optics clean
Melty holes on thin fabric Too much top-blow; slow cornering Reduce top-blow; enable corner speed cap; smaller nozzle
Inconsistent edge lot-to-lot Material oil/moisture variation Adopt “Best − 5%” guardband; pre-bake humid fabrics at low heat

Throughput & ROI Math (Why Process Beats Watts)

Quick back-of-line capacity estimate for 100 W @ 150 mm/s fabric cutting:

  • Effective path length per part: ~0.8 m
  • Cycle time per part: 0.8 m / 0.15 m/s ≈ 5.3 s
  • Per-head output: ~680 parts/hour (no dwell), ~450–550 realistic with moves & QC

Improving airflow (bottom suction + side sweep) typically allows +10–40% speed without quality loss. The cheapest upgrade is often a smaller, well-aimed nozzle and correct through-flow, not a bigger laser tube.

Pattern Nesting & Edge Quality Tips

  • Outside-in cutting order to reduce plume interference on neighboring parts.
  • Lead-in tabs on leather corners (0.5–1.0 mm) to eliminate start burns.
  • Corner speed limit (e.g., 60–70% of straight speed) for clean geometry on fabrics.
  • Fuzz control: add micro side-blow pass on edges of plush/knit materials.

Safety Notes

  • Never cut PVC/vinyl-coated textiles — use acrylic/PU substitutes. See: Do Not Cut PVC.
  • Leather fumes can be pungent — ensure filtration and fresh-air makeup.
  • Keep optics clean; residue accelerates browning on leather.

What to Buy/Upgrade (Checklist)

  • 50 mm lens for leather; 63.5 mm lens for fabrics.
  • Side-blow kit with 1.5–2.0 mm nozzle (adjustable 15–25°).
  • Honeycomb with regulated bottom suction (bypass for leather).
  • Corner speed control in the controller (or CAM with corner smoothing).

FAQ: Fabric & Leather Mass-Production

What lens should I use?

Leather → 50 mm for a tighter spot. Fabrics → 63.5 mm for depth and sheet stability.

Why do my leather edges brown?

Too much dwell or air not entering the kerf. Use a smaller side-nozzle at 15–25° and increase speed slightly.

My fabric curls into the beam — how do I stop it?

Increase bottom suction; reduce top-blow; use perimeter pins or a light vacuum frame.

Can I stack multiple fabric plies?

Yes, but derate speed by ~10–25% depending on color, finish and porosity. Verify edge quality per ply.

Which is more important: more power or better airflow?

Airflow and direction. With the same tube power, correct through-flow often yields 10–40% faster, cleaner cuts.

Any caution on materials?

Do not cut PVC/vinyl-coated textiles. Use PU-coated or acrylic substitutes.

Need a Stable Process Window for Leather or Fabric?

Our application engineers can help you lock in a repeatable speed/power/airflow/focus window for your exact material (tannage, coatings, weave, and color). Request a tailored parameter sheet or a quick material test.